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Foodies open your mouths:

Let the debates begin…

Eric Sever

Issue date: 9/2/08 Section: Arts & Entertainment
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Cleveland's culinary world has been at the forefront of the revitalization of a metropolis that Forbes Magazine recently named "one of the nation's fastest dying cities." In neighborhoods previously experiencing cultural slumps, amazing eateries have popped up, as in The Warehouse District, Tremont, East Fourth, and the Detroit Shoreway.

The city boasts a centuries-old traditional of fresh, artisan groceries in the West Side Market on West 25th Street, as well as any number of local farmer's markets.

Of course, then there is the national attention and epicurean pride brought to the city by Michael Symon's continuing successes on The Food Network.

To put it simply, and this may be news to many, there is fabulous food culture here in Cleveland.

The challenge with restaurant and food culture is that it is largely word-of-mouth.

Even more challenging is finding suggestions that fit into the college student lifestyle. Few of us have the money or time to blow on a nine course, fine-dining experience.

A good culinary resource for the CSU community would also take into account sometimes finicky palate of Midwest youth. Though I love foie gras and beef carpaccio (look them up, people), I'm a typical college student who usually just wants a juicy burger, a wellmade pizza, or a hearty salad.

Okay, okay, so I threw "salad" in there, because, again like most college students, I need to attempt better nutrition.

As one of you, I want to explore and discuss the foods that satisfy our palates without draining our wallets or canceling out our daily workouts. (Okay, okay, my monthly workouts.)

Of course discussion requires that all of you foodies out there send suggestions my way. Tell me I'm wrong. Tell me I'm right. Tell me you think I'm wrong, but try to relate it to food somehow.

I want to know what foods you love, what restaurants you frequent. Who's got the best deals? Where is there a mouthwatering, must-have dish?

Word-of mouth is how it all works.

Now, let the games begin.

Debate #1-Best Burgers
Buckeye Beer Engine

My vote for the best burgers in the Cleveland area is the Buckeye Beer Engine.

No matter which of the amazing sandwiches you choose, the perfectly-seasoned, perfectly-cooked burger makes a tasty canvas for the fabulous toppings. Particularly good is the West Side Burger ($8.75), topped with caramelized onions, sour cream, and a locallymade cheddar potato pierogi. On one visit, our waitress, Jennifer, tells us the most popular burger is the Tuscan Burger ($9). With good reason - the burger is topped with applewood smoked bacon, rosemary goat cheese, roasted red peppers and carmelized balsamic onions. It is amazing!

Prices range from Burger in the Buff ($7) up to the mammoth Double Sasquatch Burger ($10.75) with two of the fabulous, half-pound burgers. Yes, that's a full pound of beef, my collegiate friends! This beast is topped with BBQ sauce, hot pepper jack cheese, and a crunchy onion ring.

Be sure to ask about the burger of the month, they rarely disappoint.

The cost of any burger includes homemade Buckeye Chips and another BBE specialty - a deep fried pickle. I cannot claim any nutritional value to either, but will certainly defend their deliciousness. Eat the pickle first, as they're best hot out of the fryer.

An excellent, lighter choice for a side is their exceptional fruit cup. That may sound odd, but it is an abundant helping of all fresh produce, full of color and flavor. Its light sweetness pairs well with the hearty burgers.

For $.50 extra, I recommend getting their rosemary and sea salt shoestring fries instead of chips. Whichever you get, smother them in the homemade ketchup, chunky with garlicky goodness.

For vegetarians, a large grilled portabella cap or a black bean burger may be substituted for any of their signature burgers. My veg friends love them.

For the carb conscious, there is a Lightweight Burger, bunless and served with grilled, mushrooms, caramelized onions and a crisp side salad.

In terms of holistic health, this is a rare burger joint that follows the rule of using fresh, local ingredients. I cannot say this enough, but considerations about fat and caloric intake should take a back seat to concerns about keeping foods minimally processed and preservative free. The quality and wholeness of the food, being as close to nature as possible, is more important than the bottom line nutritional information.

Though beer's health benefits are debatable at best, it is a wonderful compliment to the burgers. With an ever-changing list of 27 premium drafts, two casks, and 100+ bottles, there should be an ale, lager, stout, porter, or cider for every beer drinker.

"We are very particular about constantly rotating the drafts," owner Garin Wright excitedly explains. He proudly points out daily changes and specialty beers. "We change the beer list up daily, for each season, for each holiday."

Wright's dedication to local product includes many of the beers, several brewed locally at the restaurant's sister business, the Buckeye Brewing Company.

Sampler sizes are also available for their entire draft list, so try a few. Four sample glasses equals one pint.

Buckeye Beer Engine keeps it fresh with excellent daily, weekly and monthly specials, often with a heavy German slant. However it is their consistency in making a juicy, flavorful burger and providing a constant flow of sophisticated beers that keeps them coming back.

Buckeye Beer Engine
15315 Madison Ave.
Lakewood, OH 44107
216-226-2337
buckeyebeerengine.com (Full Menu)

Honorable mentions

Bar Cento
Better known for fabulous pizzas, rising star chef Jonathan Sawyer offers a one delicious burger on the menu of his Ohio City hot spot. With spring onions and Urgalea cheese, the flavorful burger has a refined touch, but is still a hearty hunk of meat. Be sure to pair it with their amazing fries, served with fresh rosemary springs and a trio of Belgium mayos-garlic, chile, and curry. Bar Cento also offers a Veggi Burger. Best of all, either burger is available for $6 during Happy Hour (4:30-7:00).

1948 W. 25th St.
Cleveland, Ohio, 44113
( 216) 344 - 9944
www.barcento.com

Bearden's
The Bearden's patty itself is decent; however it is the unique topping that got this hamburger on the list. The Peanutburger is covered in melted peanut butter. Amazingly though, the rich nuttiness plays nicely off of the juicy beef. The waitress advised that most people get it with sweet pickles, but it's better without. At $3.35, the price is certainly right as well. Order it with their homemade beer-battered onion rings.

19985 Lake Rd.
Rocky River, Ohio 44116
(440) 331 - 7850
www.beardens-cleveland.com

Agree? Disagree? Have I missed a major contender? Let me know where your favorite burgers are. I'll gladly try any restaurant, and will certainly admit if you've proven me wrong.

It'll be rough, but in the pursuit of fair reporting, I will make it my personal mission to sample all viable suggestions. If your food find beats out mine, you'll see your name and suggestion printed in my future columns.

Please send all comments to e.sever@csuohio.edu


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